Yes, you certainly can. This is a fairly cheap and easy upgrade as well. More info coming soon. You can obtain the upgrade parts, the axle shafts, from Southbay Driveline (www.sbdriveline.com) . Contact information is on their site, and Steve there is great to deal with. I performed this upgrade myself, with Chris' help in the fall of 1999.
Updated review, with pictures (by Paul Boyd, May 2000)
Here's a writeup by Chris Bassett for this procedure:
Only parts to be careful of are the brake caliper bolts. I snapped one bolt after only torquing to about 25'#, where the manual calls for 30! Other than that, it's a piece of cake, just get some penetrating oil for the 3 hub bolts. They're 12pt 1/2 bolts too, so you'll want to get a socket for them.
Torque specs:
36mm hub nut: 175'#. I torqued it to 150, as that's my wrench's max. Just check it after a week or so.
1/2" 12pt hub bolts: 75'#
1/2" hexhead brake caliper bolts: 15'#. Lessen learned after the first one broke. Manual calls for 30 however. (NOTE: actually, in another place it calls for 7-15!)
Since you don't have manual, here are the steps from memory:
1. Remove cotter pin, Jesus bolt and washer from axle ends. (needle nose)
2. Break loose the 36mm nut on both sides. (If you don't have a cheater
bar, a 3# hammer to strike your wrench will help).
3. Loosen lug nuts.
4. Jack up and secure vehicle. Jack from axle and secure with jack stands
under axle.
5. Remove wheels.
6. Remove 36mm nut and washer.
7. Remove brake calipers (2 bolts). A LARGE c-clamp is needed. put one
side of clamp on the center of the backside of caliper (where the brake line
goes in), the other side of the clamp goes in the center of the outside
brake pad. Tighten c-clamp enough to relieve pressure from the rotor and
allow easy removal of caliper (so it slides off). Hang caliper from the coil
spring, DO NOT let it dangle from the brake line. Remove rotor (slides off)
8. Spray penetrating oil on the 3 hub bolts. Give the bolt heads a couple
light taps each w/ hammer (dont damage bolt head). Let penetratig oil do
its thing for 5-10 minutes. While waiting get the new axles unpacked and
ready, have a beer.
9. Remove hub bolts. Slide hub and brake guard off (note orientation of
brake guard). Clean up inside of hub prior to reinstallation.
10. Give the axle shaft a tug, it'll slide right out.
11. Clean outside edge of axle housing.
12. install new axle shaft, gently to align teeth with diff.
13. Follow removal installations in reverse order. Use torque guidelines
above.
NOTE: A dust cover comes already installed on the driver's side shaft. A white 2-piece cover comes uninstalled with the passenger side shaft. Don't put the cover on until you have the shaft all the way into place, then slid back out slightly. There's a lip on the shaft that this cover must go on the OUTSIDE of.
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Notes added by Josh Pavlovich
One other thing that may be helpful. When Chris helped me do this, we realized that with stock wheels it is hard to get to the hub nut. After it was in the air, and wheels off, just have a friend step on the brakes to hold it tight as you break the nut loose.
Oh, make sure to break both sides loose. We started doing one side, and had the brakes off when it was realized they needed to be on both sides to have enough pressure to hold the front from turning. basically, the brake keeps the axle from turning so you can break the nut free.
It is easier than it reads even. Only thing we looked at the book for was when Chris showed me the two different torque specs given. Went with 15lbs on mine.
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